Road Tripping from Napoli to the Amalfi Coast

The brash, bustling city and the glamorous southern coastline are two sides of the same coin.

By Laura Itzkowitz
assouline

You can’t really understand Italy until you’ve been to Napoli and the Amalfi Coast. There is, perhaps, nowhere more quintessentially Italian than the stretch of land that juts out into the Bay of Napoli, with volatile Vesuvius looming in the distance. A series of contrasts and contradictions, the city is gritty and raw—downright dirty in some places—but it’s also achingly beautiful and imbued with a mystical energy. Many people skip over it and head straight to the coast in search of sun and sybaritic pleasures, but the two are intrinsically linked. Get to know them both on a road trip that starts in Napoli and then meanders along the Strada Statale Amalfitana (SS 163)—a winding, vertiginous road that hugs the coast, offering jaw-dropping views of the landscape and the glittering sea below.

Grotto Baia dei Trentaremi can be accessed only by kayak. Courtesy of Assouline’s “Napoli Amore.”

Where To Stay

Start with a couple of nights at Atelier Inès Art & Suites in Rione Sanità, Napoli’s most dynamic neighborhood. Run by a couple of artists, this little B&B is attached to a working art studio and is filled with bespoke pieces of furniture and décor.

Once you hit the coast, you’ve got a wealth of luxurious accommodations to choose from. In Positano, Le Sirenuse is an icon of Italian hospitality, with its cherry red exterior, swimming pool, and terraces overlooking the tiled dome of the Church of Santa Maria Assunta. In Amalfi, the Hotel Santa Caterina is a beacon of coastal elegance, with antiques, hand-painted tiles, and a saltwater pool right at sea level. Up in the mountains of Ravello, the town historically preferred by aristocrats, artists, and writers, Palazzo Avinooccupies an 11th-century palace that’s been lovingly updated and transformed into a design icon

Naples is overflowing with saints of all kinds and beloved thaumaturgic Virgins frequently called “Mamma.” Courtesy of Assouline’s “Napoli Amore.”

Where To Eat And Drink

Napoli and the Amalfi Coast benefit from the bounty of the land and sea, which invariably end up on tables all over the region, from humble trattorias to Michelin-starred temples of gastronomy. As the birthplace of pizza, Napoli is naturally the best place to eat it and Neapolitans all have their favorite pizzeria. Among the old guard, there’s Pizzeria Dal Presidenteand Da Michele. Then there’s Concettina Ai Tre Santi, where young pizzaiolo Ciro Oliva elevates traditional recipes, serving them as part of a pizza tasting menu.
On the Amalfi Coast, there’s excellent pizza to be had at Mimí Pizzeria & Cucina in Ravello, a family-run local favorite with a garden in back. In the summer, it’s practically obligatory to have a long, lazy lunch at one of the beach clubs, like Lo Scoglio, Da Adolfo, or Maria Grazia, which claims to be the place where spaghetti alla Nerano was invented. Meanwhile, you’ll find sublime spaghetti al Limone at Hotel Santa Caterina’s rustic, beachyRestaurant al Mare as well as a gussied-up version of the dish at the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant Glicine. In the center of Amalfi, you can’t go wrong with a sfogliatella or gelato at the historic Pasticceria Pansa right on Piazza del Duomo.

Left: Sophia Loren waves while filming the 1963 comedy “Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow,” set in Naples. Right: On the two wings of Dante Square are twenty-six statues representing the virtues of King Charles of Bourbon. Courtesy of Assouline’s “Napoli Amore.”

What To Do

If you only visit one museum in Napoli, it should be the Museo Archeologico Nazionale, which houses an incredible collection of ancient Roman sculptures as well as some of the finest frescoes and mosaics from Pompeii, plus a “secret room” of ancient erotic art. To get a feel for the city, go for a stroll on Spaccanapoli, the famously long and narrow street that cuts through the centro storico. If the crowds and the chaos get to be too much, duck into the peaceful Cloister of Santa Chiara, where orange trees grow in a garden surrounded by 18th-century majolica tiled benches and columns.

Left: Boats packed with young people anchored at Borgo Marinari in front of the Castel dell’Ovo on a summer’s day. Socializing outdoors is characteristic of the Neapolitan way of having fun. Right: Image from Ciro Pipoli’s gallery of Neapolitan characters. The little altar to Maradona is adorned with flowers, like the ones dedicated to saints and souls. Courtesy of Assouline’s “Napoli Amore.”

Once you reach the Amalfi Coast, ditch the car and get around by foot or boat whenever possible. Many of the towns are connected by ferries, but the best thing to do is hire a private boat and let the captain show you the most beautiful coves and grottoes. When you’re not busy boating around or relaxing at the beach clubs, sign up for a guided tour of the Roman Villain Positano. Hidden under the church of Santa Maria Assunta, the area that has been excavated contains incredibly vibrant frescoes in shades of Pompeii red, cobalt, green, and ochre. In Amalfi, you might visit the Museo della Carta, where you can learn about the ancient art of papermaking, and the Duomo di Sant’Andrea with its Moorish cloister and elaborately decorated crypt. In Ravello, you should visit the Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone, which is famous for its beautiful gardens and “Terrace of Infinity.” The former hosts the Ravello Festival every summer; the latter is now a five-star hotel but its gardens are open to the public.