Since President Roosevelt wore a Montecristi at the inauguration of the Panama Canal in 1906, from that moment on, the Montecristi has been recognised throughout the world. Worn by icons such as Orson Welles, Humphrey Bogart and Gary Cooper, elegant and chic, a must-have item for every refined wardrobe, the Panama is an undeniable icon.
The unique diffusion of the Panama started with Don Manuel Alfaro who established himself in the village of Montecristi in 1835, in the province of Manabi in Ecuador.
The true consecration of the Montecristi Panama came with the inauguration of the Panama Canal in 1906, when the then President of the United States, Theodore Roosevelt, wore a splendid Montecristi which, from that moment, became recognised throughout the world. But where does its tenacity in time and style come from?
The original fibre used to make the Montecristi Panama comes from a palm called ‘Toquilla’, which is cut before the plant flowers. The result is called ‘Cogollo’, a series of threads of raw material.
In the next phase of the process, the most tender and flexible filaments of the plant are selected and turned into straw.
These undergo various processes where they are boiled and then dried making the filaments lighter and finer. Perhaps the most typical phase of the process is its colouration: the straw is washed and impregnated with Fuma, a substance emitted by a container of sulphur placed below the filaments.
Only the most candid and smoothest materials are selected. The size and fineness of the filament define the different grades of purity of the Panama. The fibres are then woven by the able and expert hands of craftsmen, moving in a play of unique and harmonious gestures. The final result is the Campana di Paja Toquilla.
The Montecristi Panama has various degrees of fineness, from Classic to Extra-fine, and it is the manufacturers themselves who determine the various standards of craftsmanship.
An ‘Extra-fine’ hat can take numerous months to make and it is the most prestigious and exclusive hat in the ‘Panama hat’ family.
The Montecristi is the best quality and most prestigious item in the panama hat family and only a few skilled craftsmen are able to carry on this ancient tradition. Tesi is one of these, a historic company from Florence, which today, after more than a century, manufactures for the most important Italian fashion designers, using excellent craftsmanship and tradition which have been distinguishing it over the years.
Models are made by Tesi. The origins of the Tesi company go back to the mid- 1800’s, when a small enterprise specializing in the production and commerce of straw hats and plaits was founded. The late 19th century was a period of great prosperity for this sector and Tesi immediately occupied a position of eminence in the markets of Europe and the U.S.A. with the arrival of the 20th century, significant investments were made to enlarge the factory and to modernize equipment and production techniques.
This was the golden age of skimmers and straw hats in general, with great emphasis on the use of Italian and oriental plaits. The market was growing and this meant that successful businesses had to anticipate the clientele’s demand for novelty and innovation.
To meet this demand Tesi introduced new styles and a new material: Panama during these years, Tesi confirmed its international prestige and established solid commercial contacts with central and North America for the supply of raw materials after the second world war the business continued to occupy a dominant position, although hats in general were no longer considered an indispensable element of clothing.
